‘Wild camping’ at high levels is possible on trekking routes but in the valleys it is important to check with farmers or the local community and

June 2012 140

Farmhouse supper in Rugova, Kosovo

to be aware of local sensitivities, e.g. no ‘skinny dipping’. However, a great pleasure of trekking is staying overnight in farmhouses or guesthouses in the valleys. You pay 20 to 25 euros a night for full board, Çaj malit ‘mountain tea’, raki, full suppers and breakfasts of home produce, and, above all, the atmosphere of a working family life.  Most houses have been modernised to cater for trekkers, so hot showers and flush toilets are usually available and bedrooms sleep 4 or more people. The family also sends you on your way with a simple packed lunch for the day’s walk.